ANZAC DAY 2004 - HELLFIRE PASS & KANCHANABURI, THAILAND
Report by Leonie McGaw

This year fellow Yandina sub-branch member Norm Rutherford and I were in Thailand on ANZAC Day as part of the Quiet Lion Tour. This annual tour has evolved from a trip originally started by Sir Edward (Weary) Dunlop to re-visit the POW camp sites along the railway line. It is now organised by the Burma Thailand Railway Memorial Association (Inc) based in Perth and highlights include visits to former POW camp and related sites, the Bridge over the River Kwai, the Burma Thailand Railway Information Centre and War Cemetery at Kanchanaburi, Hellfire Pass Museum and a walk through the Pass and other parts of the railway line.

The tour includes high school age children and military cadets who are there to learn about the tragic history of the Railway from ex-POWs who actually worked on the line, gain an understanding of their experiences and an appreciation of the courage and ingenuity shown by Allied prisoners, particularly Australians.

The trip meant a lot to me as my cousin Neil MacPherson is a former POW who worked on the line in Burma. He is a committee member of the BTRMA Inc and an energetic and dedicated participant in the tour each year. This year Neil gave the POW ANZAC Day address at the Memorial Service and Wreath Laying Ceremony at Kanchanaburi. Neil’s address is a heartfelt and moving speech and it was very warmly received on ANZAC Day.

ANZAC Day started early for our 63 travellers to ensure that the teenagers (and other night owls) did not make us late for the Dawn Service at Hellfire Pass at 5.30am. It is a credit to all concerned that we were the first group into the Pass at 4.15am. The bamboo torches in the cutting had not even been lit then and we made our way to the far end of the Pass by shared torchlight. It was cool on the way down from the Museum, but in the cutting stored heat from the rock face warmed the air and thickened the silence. The lone piper’s early practice rendition of “Flowers of the Forest” piercing the dark was an emotional start to the day. Organisers provided candles in bamboo holders to light the way and enable us to read the programme. The flickering candles and hushed whispers in the small clearing added to the atmosphere of awe created by the walk through a passage forged by the enforced labour of thousands of men under the cruellest conditions.

The service was attended by approximately 550 people, mostly Australians and our ex-POWs and other WW2 veterans were accorded the respect they deserve with special seats and a guard of three of the four cadets who were part of our group. Media from various countries vied for photos and interviews from the POWs until the service began. Our government representative Senator Amanda Vanstone spoke well and greeted the POWs with courtesy and respect. The service was very moving and emotional. Many people left poppies and candles in the cutting on the way back to the Hellfire Pass Museum.

Queuing up for coffee laced with rum and home-made ANZAC biscuits prepared and served by Embassy staff allowed time for emotions to settle and there was a great sense of camaraderie as we waited our turn to be served.

The 11am service held in the War Cemetery was also well attended. The embassies of Australia and New Zealand take it in turns to organise the service and this year it was New Zealand’s turn. Our POWs were again given pride of place and I was honoured to sit with them as a member of Neil’s family.

It was a wonderful service and included the official laying of wreaths. The four cadets on our trip, three Army and one Air Force, assisted officials laying the wreaths and were a credit to Australia. The catafalque party were also young Australian servicemen we can be proud of, withstanding the extreme heat and conducting themselves with great dignity.

Our sub-branch had ordered a wreath in Thailand and this was laid after the service. A lighter highlight of the day was the provision of free Crown Lager in a garden beside the cemetery after the service; a great example of our taxes well spent. When the Crown ran out we were reduced to New Zealand beer, but made the best of it.

I know that everyone who participated in the tour learned a lot and gained a deeper appreciation of the life we enjoy because of the sacrifice of those before us. I know the young people especially benefited from the experience and as a result of my time in Thailand with the Quiet Lion Tour, I am keen to promote the tour here on the Sunshine Coast and work on arranging sponsorship for local students to join the Quiet Lion Tour in future years.