BY SAMANTHA SCOTT

 As birds chitter and sunlight streams through the jungle, it is hard to imagine that this mountain is the site of atrocities suffered by Australian troops during World War II.

It is ANZAC Day, 2009 and about 1000 Australians and New Zealanders are gathered at the annual Dawn Service at “ Hellfire Pass” (Konyu Cutting), west of Bangkok in Thailand.

New Zealand Ambassador His Excellency Dr Brook Barrington, reminded those in attendance of what it was to be Australian and how certain qualities helped Australian Prisoners of War (PoWs) - forced by the Japanese to build the Burma Thailand railway in terrible conditions - survive.

“Men, many of them no more than boys - lived and suffered and fell and died here. Where we stand,” he said.

“The best of what it is to be Australian - tough, generous, laconic, quick to laugh, to lend a helping hand, decent, unflinching - these values were tested here. Where we stand…”

The sombre crowd was reminiscent of the thousands of men, both Allied PoWs and forced local labourers, who died on the 415km railway and had come from across the globe, to fight for their countries and for freedom. As the Last Post sounded, tears flowed. Relatives of lost loved ones were in the crowd, others were touched by the moving service.

The Ambassador continued, “As dawn breaks, full of hope and renewal, we especially remember all of those Australians who sacrificed their lives for their friends, and for peace.”

“There can be no greater gift.

“This New Zealander, honoured to be in this place, thanks them for it.”

The Dawn Service was followed by an 11am ceremony at the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery where nearly 7000 British, Australian and Dutch sailors, soldiers and airmen lie. The ANZAC Day commemorations were the pinnacle of a visit to Thailand for 117 people, mainly West Australians, who were on the annual Burma Thailand Railway Memorial Association Inc. (BTRMA) trip.

As in previous years, several attendees were former PoWs, who were captured and made to work in atrocious conditions on the railway between 1942-43. West Australian ex-PoWs Bill Haskell OAM (89), Milton (Snow) Fairclough OAM (89) and Neil MacPherson OAM (87) were guests of honour at both ANZAC Day services. Those on the tour had spent the previous week visiting stations and former camps along the railway from Nong Pladuck, the starting point from Thailand. They were spared no details when the war heroes spoke of what they had endured.

These gentlemen are proud, tough, humble, strong of heart and mind, intelligent and have the iconic Australian sense of humour. They value family, mates, good health and through the unfathomable hardships they endured, understand how lucky Australians today are. They aim to pass this part of Australia’s dark war history onto future generations and hope in their hearts that nothing this horrific ever happens again.

The PoWs first-hand knowledge of what happened - working long shifts in bare feet and minimal clothing, being bashed by guards, the pain and stench of tropical ulcers and debilitating and deadly diseases that killed men daily, was eye-opening and sobering.

Many of the 117 visitors questioned their own strength - Are we built as tough? Could we have withstood what they did? Many realised how lucky they were to live in Australia - to have plentiful food, clean water, good hospitals and hygiene, health, friends and family and particularly freedom, which Australians enjoy because of what their countrymen fought for.

The pilgrimage to Thailand started in 1985, after former PoW and esteemed veteran Keith Flanagan OAM (dec.) and Bill Haskell realised that if they didn’t tell their story to the younger generations, that this part of history would pass by. Sir Edward (Weary) Dunlop (1907-1993) was among the group which retraced their steps along the railway. Returning to the railway and former camps was a turning point for Mr Haskell, who later saw Thailand in a more positive light.

“Before I came back on that trip I had horrible dream after horrible dream.”

“We came back in April (1985). The river was gorgeous, the company was gorgeous and my idea of Thailand changed after that trip and I have never had a (horrible) dream since."

Although harsh lessons, Mr Haskell said war ensured he learnt important life skills - how to live, not to waste food, to always contribute and to value mateship.

“When you were right down it was your friends who brought you back up again,” he explained.

“It gave me an appreciation of what we had - and to really appreciate it.”

Mr Fairclough said that the horrific occurrence taught him that “there should be no more wars”.

The Quiet Lion Tour, as the trip is known, has been an annual event since 1985. It is in honour of Weary Dunlop, nicknamed the Quiet Lion - a man of “great heart and a soft voice” - who due to his exceptional medical ability, strength of character and willingness to put himself in the firing line to protect the sick, is arguably one of the greatest Australians who ever lived.

Both Mr Haskell and Mr Fairclough were in Dunlop force during WWII and witnessed their Medical Officer (Dunlop) perform lifesaving operations in the jungle at night, with minimal supplies and light. Dunlop was also instrumental in implementing a precise saline solution which reduced the rapid death rate from cholera, which beforehand was killing men within hours of contracting this contagious and deadly tropical disease.

In 2009, more than 40 students were invited, many sponsored, to hear the PoWs’ accounts. While visiting the sites of the former PoW camps, the young people showed maturity and an interest in learning. Each went home to present an address to their school communities - keeping the stories alive.

This year, students came from Carine, Esperance, Carnamah, Mingenew and Wongan Hills. Army, airforce and navy cadets from Perth and Mandurah also attended.

Members of the extended Haskell, MacPherson and Fairclough families (of all ages) also travelled with the respected veterans.

The three PoWs plan to travel back to Thailand for next year’s trip.

A fourth much loved ex-POW and tour stalwart, Ernie Redman OAM, of Esperance, had planned to take the 2009 trip with the Esperance contingent, which included 14 school students, but fell ill just a few days beforehand. Sadly, Mr Redman passed away a day after the tour ended.

Although this particular journey focused on the hardships of war in Thailand during WWII, there are other battles Australians have been and are involved in that cannot be forgotten.

As Colonel John Blaxland Australian Defence Force Defence Attache expressed, “… ANZAC Day is multifaceted, incorporating all wars and current battles.”

“Being in the army and serving for 26 years, I am conscious of the more than 3000 troops in operation now.

“As we remember those who fell in the past, I am acutely aware of those still serving.”

More information is available at www.btrma.org.au

(2009 QLT Photos)